Rigging for big game
- This topic has 30 replies, 16 voices, and was last updated Oct 7, 2011 at 12:59 am by
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So this summer I spent quite a bit of time pulling on fish over 10 lbs., for the first time in my life, really.
My system is really simple. Bimini for joining backing to line is a must! Easy knot Zach take time to learn it. Its easier if you get someone to show you how to tie it. Loop to loop connects my 20 pound vanish fluro leader to my fly line. If my fly line doesn’t have a loop then I install one on it.
The Leader loop?? I don’t know the name but I think I saw Lefty tie it once. The perfection was IMO not very strong. I was seeing alot of breaks at the knot. This knot I use now you take a large loop and double it twice then pass the loop through the doubled loops. Not easy to explain but it holds like a sob.
I use Rio loop connectors to make loops on the end of all lines that don’t have one. I also us the Castwell when I’m out and don’t have any of those loops. The nail knot system is going to eventually pull apart your line usually separating the line from the core. Even the Castwell holds better then a nail.
If there are no loops in the fly line, I form a loop on each end by tapering the tip, folding it back over to form the loop, super glue it in place, then tie two nail knots with 20 # backing material, one a the base of the loop and one covering the tag end. I tie a bimini twist in the backing with a loop large enough to pass the reel through, then a standard loop to loop connection. Some people double the loop with a surgeons knot, but I don’t really see the need. I never use a tippet that is over 2/3 of the strength of the backing so the backing knot should hold (if I am using 20# backing, the maximium tippet would be 13#).
I form a loop in the butt section of the leader with a perfection loop and connect the leader to the fly line with a loop to loop. All of my leader knots are Albrights. The tippet to fly is a Kreh loop. I prefer the perfection loop because it does not kink to the side like some loops. I have never had a problem with it. Since it is tied in 30# to 40# butt section, even if it looses strength it is still stronger than a 12# tippet.
I think the knot Mike is referring to is what is known around here as the Canoeman’s knot. If you look closely at this knot after it is cinched tight, you will see it is just another way of tying a bowline.
Similar setup;
Line-Butt section: Albright
Any mid leader knots: Albrights
Leader to Bite tippet if applicable: Albright
Tippet to Fly: No slip loop knotSometimes I use a loop to loop from my bite tipper to leader.
I think the advantage of the Albright, Mike, is that it’s based on the same Chinese Handcuff principles as the nail knot, but the line itself is doubled back through so it’s physically impossible for it to slice the coating and slip off.
Zach
backing to line 0wt-5wt double or triple sugeons loop, 6wt and bigger is a bimmini
then i make loops out of my fly line with 12lb mono nail knots (the actual loop is the fly line, i don’t like mono loops)
and pretty much loop to loop connections everywhere.
leader to tippet- blood knot every time
tippet to fly-clinch or improved clinch, never failed me (knock on wood)The system has worked very good for me and i have been pleased with it. It should also be noted that whenever i make nail knots (bimmini, fly line loop) i seal it with either zap a gap or knotsense, but usually knot sense. i keep all my reels rigged this way. i like having the bimini or surgeons loop to easily change flylines (to cheap to buy spools….)
the bimini on the backing works great and is a breeze to change out lines , especially when there is already a factory loop which I have never had a problem using them, I know some people cut them off and go with their own system.
I have never tried Blanton’s braided loop technique. I looked at the instructions and it looks like a homemade version of the Cortland Braided Leader Loop. For some reason, I’ve never trusted them.
I don’t trust the store-bought ones.
“…the array of arcane knots…the leader…is attached to the fly…and to choose (a knot) is to make a moral choice. You are made to understand that it would not be impossible to fight about it or, at the very least, to quibble darkly.” – Tom McGuane
On bigger game stuff, I also favor Blanton-style braided loop on both ends of the fly line. I also like to use it on the back in of lighter fly lines as it makes changing lines a snap. I use a surgeons loop tied with the doubled strands of a Bimini in the backing.
For leader loops, I use a perfection for tapered leaders. It is a slightly weak knot, but it tightens pretty, slim and straight. And even an 80% knot in the heavy butt section is still stronger than the tippet. For straight untapered leaders on sinking lines, I use the triple surgeons.
And Zach, when I don’t have time to use braided loop, I use an Albright to attach leader (or looped permanent leader butt) to the flyline. It’s not pretty or slick, but with sinking lines and short leaders that’s a moot point.
Kent - FlyFishGA
We made a bimini video, maybe that will help, as I agree, bimini is the best backing to fly line connection.
Zach, The Albright knot sucks…….. the one good use for it is connecting monofilament to single strand wire in which case it is the best option by far.
Send me your postal address and I’ll get a copy of my DVD Arbor to Fly to you. It sets out all sorts of connections (especially using gsp backing) following the line from the arbor connection right through to the fly.
Morsie
I’m surprised to see so many folks using the clinch to attach fly to tippet. I might use it for small flies and 6x or 7x tippet, but for targeting big fish over 10 pounds, that is usually going to mean bigger flies and bigger tippets – I would go with the Palomar knot in that case…
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