Float Tube 101 – Plus Taking Better Tube Pictures
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Zach – you asked if we had any comments on boats or personal watercraft . . .
In light of the recent topics on personal inflatable watercraft and drift boats, I thought it would be fun to post a few pictures on portable float tubes. This is focused on those new to fly fishing but hopefully everyone will jump in with additional tips and tricks.
Over the past two years I have developed a system that allows me to be on the river or pond within 30 minutes after work. By streamlining my gear I can generally fish for 1-2 hours and still be home for dinner. From my office to my house I can hit either 2 ponds, 1 lake, or a big river (the Chattahoochee river in Atlanta). In the summer I fish the warm water lake/pond almost exclusively (bass and panfish) during the week and head to the mountains for trout fishing on the weekends. In order to maximize fishing time I have learned to rely on my float tube (Buck’s Bag Cutthroat) and the Orvis rod case.
Load up the car with my waders, boots, rod case and float tube before leaving for work. Remember to deflate the tube if it’s hot!).
The Orvis rod case is one of the best investments I’ve made. I now use it as my main storage for all fishing gear. It holds 6 rods in their stocking as well as many reels, spare spools, all my main fly boxes, tippets, and lines. Before I started using this system I would always forget something important like nippers or fly boxes or indicators, etc. Now I know that everything is there in one place and I just grab the bag and put it in the car. When I get to the water it’s all ready to go. Especially reassuring to know that I have a 3,4,6wt rod and matching reel/line setup plus sinking lines without thinking.
At the water I just load up the tube.
The backpack straps are indispensable. Get some! These allow you to strap the tube on your back and simply hike to your destination. For example, on the river I park and then walk up the trail at least 1-2 miles and then float back to my car. Generally, I can get to the water within 30 minutes of parking the car. At the lake or pond, I can move around the shore easily.
Sorry I couldn’t get a hot model for these next shots :-/
On the river, the float tube is great for moving from place to place. Here is a spot I fish often and you can see that tube makes getting to each rock much easier (there are deep pools between each bolder).
You can be back to the car when necessary and home for dinner. Easy.
Of course . . . I didn’t land any fish on this day to show how to photograph fish in the float tube, aagghh. Here’s a fly shot instead.
Float Tubing in Montana – Horseback.
Joel, this picture is for you 😉 Quit yet?
Cheapest boat on the market . . .
Looks like a class set-up Neal..
It’s great that the tube fits in your car while inflated – that must save a bit of stuffing around when you get where you’re going..
Also impressed with the Orvis case..
www.dsaphoto.com
A picture is thousand words that takes less than a second while a thousand words is a picture that takes a month.
David – the Orvis case also doubles as a fantastic camera flash bag! It can hold 4 hot shoe setups as well as their snoots/grids and batteries. The length is also sufficient for a small umbrella stand.
Take Better Pictures from Your Float Tube
The waterproof cameras are a great accessory for the float tube. If you have a non-waterproof camera get a small Otter Box (Otter 1000) http://www.otterbox.com/waterproof-cases/otterbox-1000/. I use the O1000 to protect my cell phone.
Typical shots from a float tube. . . things to avoid and tips on pics
AVOID this shot at all cost!!! This view never works. It is the angler perspective shot – non-fishers will have no idea what is going on. All you see is the line in the water and no depth to the scene.
Instead, employ creative angles of your rod or background. Here, you can clearly see there is a fish on the line and the rod is bending. You can imagine what is going on in the water and it leaves you wondering.
I often see float tube shots like this one with the fish splashing around in the water. Crap! Nobody but you will understand what was going on. Plus, it makes me kinda sea sick.
Then there is the death grip tube picture :-X This shot is the most common and IMO the worst. Try to think about your position – avoid simply grabbing the fish and extending your arm to get the fish in view. For non fishers this shot makes fishing look like a brutal pastime.
Kung foo grip
Another problem I often see is the “upside down” tube shot. Here we are moving toward a better shot because the fish is in the net and the situation is more controlled. However, many people stop there and simply take the picture. Look at the composition – crap! The fish is upside down and the head is facing to the upper right and the reel is off-center. The viewer feels the need to turn their own head to see the shot.
This one is better but now the head is facing the sky
Better, more artsy
Now we got it! ;D Put the fish in the net, take a breath, relax and then remember to turn the head so it is facing the camera. This will always give the best result! We are accustomed to looking at things head first.
Once you learn your camera settings you can take much better float tube shots like this one of a bass. The head is facing the camera, the body is glistening and the creative placement of shadows give the fish depth and separation. Now float tubing looks fun and others might see why you are crazy enough to sit in a tube for hours at a time.
Special thanks to Zach – I learned the technique of facing the fish head toward the camera during his Photography workshop last year. It is a great tip!
Aaron Christensen floating a pond at Callaway Gardens during the SE conclave.
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